Instructions for making a medieval line tying device (as described in the Treatise of Fishing with an Angle) in the 2nd Book of St. Albans- 1496.
I believe that of all the questions I’ve been asked about angling during the Middle Ages, the subject that has always gotten the most attention is that of making the line.
The most common question is, “How did you make the line tying device?” This is not surprising given that the reference most people use is from the directions and sketch offered us by The Treatise of Fishing with an Angle, published as part of The Second Book of St. Albans, 1496. Here, in modern English is the sketch, and instructions, from the Treatise.
And to know how to make your instrument, see, here it is in a picture. And it shall be made of wood, except the bolt underneath; which must be of iron.
As you can see, there’s not a whole lot to go on here. The picture is vague and one dimensional. There are no instructions or detail.
I decided that I would create a web page, with pictures, of my first simple line tying device. Hopefully this will answer the question one last time, shed more light on the subject, and allow people to better understand and make their first line tying device.
The thing I want to stress is that this is the very most basic line tying device you’ll ever see. Once you have the basic understanding of the ‘hows’ and ‘whys’ I’m sure most of you will go on to make more creative and aesthetic versions of the device.
Some of you may be more comfortable building one similar to my first one pictured before moving on to the version you’ll ‘want’ to use at demos, events, etc. Others may see the photographs and say, “Oh, that’s what that is supposed to do.” and move right ahead to their ‘event’ piece. That’s totally acceptable. This page is for you. I’m here to provide the basics. You provide the creativity and color as you wish.
All I ask is that you read through this entire document before you start on your project.
Providing that you have access to the few tools needed, the actual ‘parts’ for this device should be able to be obtained in most parts of the country for under $15.
Tools needed- Small hammer or mallet, small saw, pliers or vice grips, wood glue, coping small with smallest blade you can find, drill (with 5/8 and ¼ inch wood bits”
Hardware Needed- 1- 30” long 1” diameter dowel rood, 1- 6” long 5/8 diameter dowel rod, 1- ¾” thick piece of plywood cut into a 6” x 6” square, 2- ¼ threaded rods that are 2 ½ inches long, 2- ¼” wing nuts, 1- ½” x 3” piece of metal (scrap metal, thick aluminum, just some piece of metal that won’t easily bend)
Bear in mind that the pictures below are not a step by step by step rendition. Once completely together, the device can not be taken apart. If you have questions after reading this, please email me.
INSTRUCTIONS
Drill a 5/8” hole through one end of your large dowel rod 2 inches from the end. ~NOTE Do not move the bit around to enlarge the end of the hole.
Hammer your small dowel through the hole you just cut. Hammer until 1 ¾ inches are through the other side. See left side of picture below.
~NOTE- If you have to sand the hole, or make the whole slightly larger to get the dowel through, this is ok. Bear in mind, however, You do not want it to be able to move freely.
Cut a half circle into one side of your 6x6 plywood. Cut the circle in the center of one side. Note- the metal hardware could not be removed in order to take this pic. However, you can clearly see the cut described.
~NOTE The ½ circle should be ¾ inches high and 1” across. The half circle, when cut, should fit onto the dowel rod, and able to slide along it freely. Sanding, or cutting it slightly larger to accommodate this motion is warranted.
Drill a 5/8 inch hole on each side of the half circle in your plywood. Drill this hole 3/4 inch deep.
Drill two 5/8 inch holes in your metal strip. These holes need to line up with the two holes you just cur in your plywood.
Squirt a few drops of wood glue into the holes in your plywood.
Insert a metal rod into each hole in your plywood. Finger tighten a few turns. Do not fully tighten.
Place the scrap metal pieces over the two bars.
Screw wing nuts onto the bars about ¾ inch.
With pliers, or vice grips, screw the rods into place until only 1 ¾ inches are exposed.
Once this step is completed, your 6x6 block of wood should look like the picture below.
~NOTE The reason the scrap bar and wing nuts are installed ‘BEFORE’ tightening the bars all the way in, is to eliminate the damaging of threads on the rod which may lead to difficulty, or impossibility, of getting the wing nuts onto the rod.
11) With the coping saw, make a small ½ inch deep cut in the long end of your small dowel rod The long side is your ‘top’ side
With the coping saw, make (3)- ½ cuts in your 6 x 6 plywood on the opposite side of your hardware. Place one slit in the middle of the board, and one to each side of it 1 1/2 inches away.
Loosen the wing nuts, if needed, and slide onto the large dowel rod, with the hardware facing down. Slide it a few inches down the dowel rod and tighten wing nuts.
YOU’RE DONE!
(Please see the Tips below)
TIPS
Here’s some things you’ll want to keep in mind
If you’re going to use this indoors, on tables, etc. you may want to add a plastic cap, fabric, or something to the bottom of your small dowel and ‘especially’ the threaded rods, as these are the ‘feet’ of your device. You don’t want to be scratching up your furniture.
When you buy your horse tail, you’ll never have all the same size lengths of hair, even in the same pack. The wing nuts being able to loosen, and therefore your plywood move, is critical. ALWAYS move your plywood about 3 inches shorter than your smallest piece of hair being used. Bear in mind that when plaiting your line, the overall length is shortened.
If you find while plaiting your line that when you walk away the three slits are still too big to hold the line in place, you can fold a piece of paper, cardboard, etc. to place onto the line while in the slit to hold it fast. It may not look ‘right’, but it works.
For most people, myself included, this is very much a practice piece. If you’re not new around the woodshop and plan on making just one, stain or paint your wood before assembling. I would recommend staining as it doesn’t change your measurements.